There ain't no least effort to it.

Strip it.

Scrape and sand. Scrape and sand again; and again.

 

Pressure washer

 

Try a heat gun with a putty knife scraper. With the gun, heat the old paint till it bubbles up then immediately scrape.

The putty knife can be anywhere from the skinny one up to a three inch wide one. Try both.

Now, I give this advice under advisement, it could burn your house down. I personally use a propane torch as the heat source. The torch is faster due to its higher concentrated heat plus no cords. I only use the torch when it’s appropriate and safe, as in outside and low wind conditions with a water hose handy.

Warning, check for lead based paints on your house. Take appropriate precautions if found.

 

I used to see alligatored paint a lot back when exterior oil base paint was the norm. With latex paints you only see it when the paint was applied too heavy in too hot conditions. Your alligatoring was obviously there prior to the quick dress up paint job.

As noted you need to scrape or sand it smooth but on a house that old lead is a distinct possibility so test first!

 

I agree with Mark on the possibility of lead, but do not share his concern, which surprises me a bit. ....... We are both from the generation that ate dirt and broke thermometers so we could polish dimes, and play, with the mercury, etc. ...... AND lead was used in paint when we were kids. ...... We made it.

I would not eat lead, or paint that might contain it, but be concerned about it in paint I'm removing? ..... No.

And as alluded to, there ain't no silver bullet. All you can do it scrape it as easily as possible, and I find that turning a 'one hand' job into a 'two hand' job' via an extension pole, works wonders.

 

The dangers of lead are ingestion [kids] and breathing the dust [sanding]

 

Absolutely ....... and if there was the possibility of children eating the paint, or if the OP thought that that situation required 'sanding', then perhaps it would be an issue. And with a house that old, it a good chance it could be there.

But 'sanding' to remove what's in the pics is out of the question, IMO. ...... 'Scraping' only ....... and what you scrape off, you dispose of in bags.

"..lead-paint waste disposal is excluded from EPA hazardous waste management regulations if the waste comes from a residential household project. I.e., residential lead-based paint waste can be managed as non-hazardous household waste..".

Lead-Paint Waste Disposal Rules and Guidelines | MCF Environmental Services

Now myself, I would ONLY go through bagging it if I had it was tested, and found to be a lead based paint. If it tested negative, it just goes 'on the ground' if outside.

IMO, more government overkill with a 'boogieman'. ...... Lead poisoning from water going through 'lead' pipes? ..... Sure. ..... Lead poisoning from eating paint? What are the odds?

 

I've scraped ~ 12 gallons of alligatored paint mainly with the use of a heat gun and putty knife and while there's a good bit more scraping to go I am finally beginning to see a bit of light at the end of the tunnel. There is some exposed to weather woodwork with significant upward facing cracks that's still structurally sound but I've got to think should have the cracks filled in so that water isn't held within them leading to rot. Can one of you experienced folks recommend appropriate filler for these and while where at it. What primer and paint would you suggest for this 1880s wood trim?

Thanks for all replies.

 

You could fill it with an exterior spackling and then coat it with an oil exterior primer. Removal is best!

Have you considered paint and varnish remover?

 

You could fill it with an exterior spackling

Thanks Mark. Do you have a particular brand you favor?

 

I've used the MH Ready patch when needed. Patching will always be the weak point.

For strippers I've always asked at the paint store which product would be the best for the job at hand. Generally the more caustic the better.