Tap it to the next size screw.

 

Fix it right with a helicoil.

RR :smile::smile:

 

If you use the helicoil, you will need a new helicoil every time that you have a filter change.

But it is done a lot at dealerships, for a premium cost.

Any competent DI Y er can do it though.


ED

 

I thought about Helicoil. But the kits are very expensive. And I am told those are for permanent fixes (to elaborate on what Nagorg is saying). I change my fluid and filter about every 1.5 years because of the extreme Arizona summer temps.

I hear what Neal is saying about tapping to the next screw size. But I sort of like the idea of screwing in the bolt one time and never touching it again. Then I would just undo nut and/or lock washer to do filter changes.

 

Or automotive epoxy and glue a stud in the hole and use a nut and washer to secure the filter.

 

Helicoils are not a permanent fix, Are used quite a lot on spark plugs, you just need to replace it every time you change plugs.

How about tapping the hole a bit bigger, then screw in a stud, with a nut on the outside of the filter, that way you remove the nut, leaving the stud, to change the filter, then put the nut back on.

epoxy the stud into the valve body, and it should stay.

Or get a used valve body from a wreck, and replace it's shift kit with a new or the shift kit in your current one.

But a new kit is better.

ED

P. s. Jim typed faster.

 

That's good to know that Helicoils can be used for non-permanent solutions.

The tapping/stud/epoxy thing you guys speak of is sounding good to me. I have threaded bolts or screws with a little Allen fitting at the end. Are these the 'studs' you speak of?

The hardware guy says he likes the nylon locknuts (lock function built into nut itself)) for the trans filter application I described to him. Does this sound good to you guys? Or do you like nut and lock washer combo better?

I didn't know there is an automotive epoxy. Better than thread locker? Will it stand up to transmission heat?

(Installing a shift kit in a valve body would probably exceed my skill level).

Think I can still back out old mounting bolt still? I had some trouble last time around. What if I can't back it out?

 

If you are tapping it bigger you may need 2 taps. the normal one that tapers and the then the one with w snub nose so you can get closer to the bottom of the hole.
Both the same size and thread count.

 

The helicoil is a one time use, often confused with permanent.

used once, and when it is removed it gets destroyed, and you need a new helicoil.

Ny-lock nuts are great, might not hold up to the trans heat, hard to say, I have not needed to use one in a trans.

J-B weld makes several grades of epoxies, and I think one is high heat automotive.

You need to look at your favorite auto parts store.

A picture of the allen head thing you ask about would help us to determine it's usability.


ED

 

I attached a photo of two of the hardware pieces I purchased. You can see the nylon locknut. And I believe the other is the 'stud' you speak of. If you zoom into the photo, you can barely see the hex hole where Allen wrench would be inserted.

I bought additional hardware sizes as a backup also

 

Yes that will work, one tip, use a small thin nut on the shaft of the stud that you have, after you get it screwed into the valve body.

this locks the stud and it won't unscrew later during filter changes.

Just be gentle with the stud installation and it's own lock nut, you don't want to pull it out of the new threads.

Then install the filter and the ny-lock.

As I said I don't know the temperature range of the nylon, but I have used them on several things otherwise.


ED

one other point, the ny-lock is a one time use item also, once removed it won't lock again, some try to re-use them, but it will not hold.

 

That's smart thinking about using the thin nut to prevent stud from backing out during filter changes.

It might be better if I forgo the nylon lock nuts and use the nut and metal lock washer combo instead. Won't that work just as well to fold the filter in place?

I just thought of something else. See that mounting hole on the filter in the first photo I attached?
That might be a tad wide for the nuts and lock washer. So I might need a slightly wider flat washer to use as a base for the nuts/lock washer. Can you mount a lock washer or nut directly on a flat washer for what I'm doing?

 

Not trying to step on toes but I have used helicoils on caliper hold down bolts, spark plugs, head bolts, ect and not once has the coil came out when the bolt, plug were removed. The key is the put red lock tight on the coil before you insert it and let it dry. If you don't, it will come out. But I would, in this case, tap it out to the next size and be done with it. Just be sure the bolt will go through the filter hole, if not, drill it out.:vs_cool:

 

Just a thought.
Maybe a self tapping screw

 

Brainbucket.

Good advice on using the red loktite, I never thought of that.

Will try it sometime.

And if it works as stated, great tip. Will save time and money.


ED

 

I think the stud approach is what I would do. I haven't used Heli-Coils often, just not a fan of them, but was watching the comments because I don't recall issues with having to replace them each time the bolt was removed. Then saw the mention of Loctite, which I have always done and just assumed was the right way, so yes, in my experience they can work when installed this way. A self tapping screw could work, but I wouldn't because I don't like using them for something like this where you know that it will be removed and reinstalled semi-regularly. The problem, in my opinion, is that they are designed to cut threads as they go, so unless you have them perfectly lined up on subsequent installations they will remove a little material each time, eventually leading to a sloppy fit, and then you're back where you started.

 

You only use it to get the threads.
It's mainly for permanent use.
When it comes times to change you get the bolt with the right threads.

I used this idea on a boat motor and it worked fine.

 

Dexter II : you are right a self tapping screw into the soft aluminum of the trans valve body will eventually ream out the hole and he will be back to the start again.

Good to know that others have used RED loktite on helicoils, and had success on a fix.


ED

 

Waiting for a surgery to heal on my arm before I do this. Maybe in a couple weeks or less?

Self tapping is a possibility if I could use a one time self-tapping stud. And thanks for the note on use of red lock tight with the helicoils.

Can I use a flat washer on the filter hole as a base for the nuts and lock washer to rest on?

Anyone had any experience with the nylon lock nut for automotive use in areas of high temperature such as transmission?

 

There are flat washers called "fender washers", that will cover a larger hole if that is what you are asking.

The washer has a small hole, and a large area coverage.

You could double nut the fastener, in lieu of any locking nut, the second nut locks the first nut tight.

Getting a secure fastening to your valve body is crucial.

I would get a helicoil and RED loktite and try that.

Do follow your doctors advice on your surgery and do not over stress the thing.

I have regrets from long ago of not following orders, and have pains that should have never happened.

If I would have listened then.

ED

 

OK. Thanks. I have thoroughly read all your suggestions. I'll see if any more questions come to mind.

(Damn surgical glue might be slowing the healing process, as doc thinks I might have a skin sensitivity to it) ED sending you a message

 

Ayuh,..... If yer changin' the trans oil every year or 2, Toss the filter, 'n don't worry 'bout it,.....
If there's any debris big enough for the filter to catch, things have already gone bad, 'n the end is near even with the filter,....

 

There is no way I'll drive without a transmission filter in my truck.

 

You do NOT want to use any type of epoxy inside your transmission. Asking for trouble. If a piece breaks off, it could end up in the wrong place.

 

I finally got this done today. I didn't do helicoils or thread tapping. I used a combination of stud, serrated flange lock nut, and thread locker. I also inserted a couple copper wire strands in the screw hole to help the stud seat.

I can do it next time with epoxy and thread tapping if I'm not satisfied with today's fix. I still have leftover assorted hardware. Thanks again.