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Spraying primer interior trim

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2K views 7 replies 3 participants last post by  mark sr  
#1 ·
When spraying high quality latex primer on trim, do you find a need to sand before topcoats? I know it wouldn't hurt but would love to skip if finish quality won't be affected.
Backstory:
I'm repainting all interior trim previously painted with oil enamel, with exception of the old base that I'm replacing with 1x6 pre primed FJP, pre primed shoe, and clear pine cap. Old oil has been getting sanded, filled, fully primed with 1-2 coats BM 217 alkyd, then sanded again. I prefer not spot priming and dealing with feather sanding to blend. I'm a perfectionist and at this rate it will take me a year to paint the house. I decided I'm going to try pulling out the sprayer. There's not alot of furniture in the house yet and I don't mind masking.
After replacing all the base, sanding existing door casings, wainscoting, chair rail, etc, filling with wood filler, sanding, tacking, masking, I would spray with latex primer (I've got SW wall and wood, and BM 046) then 2 coats of Advance satin.
I have a "diy" airless, Titan control max 1700 with 515 tip, as well as a Graco RAC X guard and a 210 and 310 tip.
 
#2 ·
Half the purpose of priming is to give it a sandable surface to make babys ass smooth, so the paint can just lay on top. Advance is VERY hard to spray, BTW. I use a 309 and a dehumidifier in the room every time I have to spray that stuff. Its a very narrow line between too light and too heavy.
 
#5 ·
I did some tests with spraying advance using some of the original oak wainscoting panels I pulled out during remodel that were previously painted oil enamel used throughout the house. Masked off a little 6x6' area in my basement (70 deg, 60-65% humidity) and sprayed one panel like I would normally spray latex and another panel with fog coat followed by another heavier but light coat 5 minutes later. The only prep I did on the panels was a good cleaning with krud kutter.
Total disaster as you might expect woodco. The panel that wasn't fogged looked like it might melt into the ground with drips after a few minutes. The one that was fogged not as bad, but not good. In addition to terrible ambient conditions, I was getting tails with the unthinned advance using 310 fflp with my 1600psi max machine which contributed to drips.

I let them dry overnight in upstairs conditioned air, then sanded out the drips and primed both with rattle can of coverstain. I think the drips were made worse by lack of surface bite with old oil enamel. We had a really nice day outside on saturday mid 70s with 30-40% humidity so I sprayed them outside. I thinned the advance 10% water that got rid of tails and did a fog coat on both followed by another after 5 min. No issues.

Your dehumidifier method will be a must for me especially now in summer. I have a decent size one around 500 watt I think. My main concerns are the dining room that has about 30 feet of the same panel wainscoting, and the ~10 doors I was going to set up in spare 13x13' bedroom. Do you know how big your dehumidifier was, and for doors would you limit spraying to only a couple at a time? I'd be a little concerned a dehumidifier wouldn't be able to keep up with 10 doors all sprayed at once in the same room.
 
#6 ·
you might need to just do a few side at a time. Im not sure about the wattage on mine. I paid about 180 for it at lowes though. the smaller the room, the faster the humidity builds. Theres gauge on the the machine. I saw mine jump to 65% after about four doors. Its been a while, but I think I would just do a few at a time
 
#7 ·
Sounds like we have the same one. When you sprayed advance would you always do 2 coats as a matter of practice? The one sprayed coat I did appears to have covered as good or better than 2 brushed coats.
Also, on trim repaints if the surface was smooth and in good shape after cleaning/scuff sanding would you bother with priming before advance?
You’ve probably answered these same questions a dozen times over.
Thanks woodco